Deep in the hearts of the Mijikenda lies a gem treasured by the people, an age-old tradition that has stood defiant through time disregarding cultural decay as the coastal region grows and become more metropolitan. A preserve of the locals and the few who assimilate to embrace it; it stands unique... THE MANGWE!
So, what exactly is a mangwe? Simply put, the Mangwe is a premise for the serving and preservation of the unadulterated coastal drink called palm wine, MNAZI. Whereas you’d walk into a bar and get spoiled for choice on what to drink, you walk into a mangwe exclusively for mnazi; although a few urban ones serve other drinks as well. Here, the air is always filled with laughter as men and women cast aside their worries and wield humor to take jabs at each other.
A mangwe can host from one bar to more than five; different owners united on common ground to make profit. In the latter setting, competition is tough and the success of the mangwe chiefly lies in the waiter’s charm. Expect not to find a sign with the mangwe name inscribed, but to each, a distinct name is given. Mshike Mshike, Mbuzi Wengi, Mama mchafu, Kudzacha, Kodorini, Kwa Rasta etc.
Like all magnificent things, the mangwe is kept simple. The seats and tables are wooden or plastic, drinks are served in mbokos with a mrija or in plastic cups as well, and to complete the experience, makuti roofing. The taste of mnazi is subjective. Fresh mnazi is sweet to the tongue while kilalo is sour and more alcoholic.
The mangwe serves as a News stand and a library for all past events... the history of the land and of the people lingers here. It is here you get to know of any concealed land disputes, get to hear how Kazungu spent his last hour before the grim reaper paid him a visit, or how the new OCS has been top trend all week followed closely by Gitonga from Meru illicit affair with Kadzo.
Food is usually served on order. For mangwes that do not have the meal option, your order is placed at the nearest hotel and you’ll be served at the mangwe when it’s ready. Alternatively for some, you provide cash for what you desire to eat plus an agreed service charge and it's cooked for you. While in Kaloleni, I had the pleasure of dipping fried fish, goat head or udzora in locally made hot sauce... chilli peppers put in a bottle with masimbi, and left to naturally ferment under the sun for a couple of days, popularly called SIKI. It has a sweet slow mild burn that lingers on your tongue after food is swallowed; very sweet.
Like all businesses, mangwes are bound to face challenges. In their case, it is one of life’s certainties: taxation, not to the KRA but to the police otherwise raids will push your business to extinction. Price of mnazi fluctuate depending on the supply, but surprisingly,all mangwe sell the same price at a given time depending on the location!
On the whole, mangwes are a safe haven for enjoying great company, food and drink. While in the Coastal area of Kenya wet your whistle at a mangwe and share the experience.
Pics by Wambugu Williamson
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